VOL. II, ISSUE 14
Day One: A Rainy Arrival
Beyond the train window, Como was unexpectedly rainy. The hills around the water, and my plans for the afternoon, disappeared into a gray mist.
On the bus to the Sheraton Lake Como Hotel, I met several Americans who had come to Como for a wedding. Between a close friend taking his first international trip for a wedding and celebrations filling my feed all summer, Como had begun to feel like a wedding destination. Yet my introduction to the lake held less ceremony. Gray mist, an unexpectedly open afternoon, and nothing on the agenda.
Instead of going into town, I spent the afternoon exploring the hotel and nearby Granmercato. I always make time for a grocery store when traveling. From unique flavors of Pringles to the variety of wine on display, local markets offer a quieter cultural exploration.
I found lunch in the aisles. Local cheese, cured meat, and a bottle of prosecco. It was simple but paired well with the rainy view from the hotel window.
Kitchen, the on-property Michelin-starred restaurant, was the reason behind the hotel stay, and its proximity worked remarkably well given the weather. Dinner was an interpretation of contemporary Italian cooking with produce from the restaurant’s biodynamic garden. Large windows looked onto the park and outdoor dining space. While the rain kept me inside, it also accentuated the greenery outside.
The tasting menu felt fresh and light. Produce led the meal, accompanied by seafood and ravioli. While the food and presentation reflected the setting, the service did not live up to the restaurant’s reputation. I would not go out of my way to return.
Day Two: Bellagio in Full Color
The morning began with the hotel’s spread of fresh fruit, cheese, smoked salmon, and a croissant before following the winding roads to Bellagio.
I wandered up the vibrant yellow stairs of Salita Serbelloni. Several turns brought me to Frey Como. Inside were three older Italian women, each exceptionally stylish. They made the shop feel less like a souvenir stop and more like a case study in how to wear silk in daily life. I chose a long black silk scarf. Among the colorful prints, black felt like the easiest to pack for future travel.
At I Giardini di Villa Melzi, the greenery appeared even more saturated after the rain. Paths wound between old trees with occasional glimpses of the bright blue lake. The gardens offered a quieter way to experience Bellagio’s beauty.
After a full day in Bellagio, I returned to Como tired and hungry. I followed the smell of grilled meat drifting from Ristorante Middle East. The grilled meat, soft pita, and pistachio-covered pastries offered the comfort I wanted after a long day.
The day ended with a nocciola gelato from Gelateria Lariana, eaten while walking along the lake at sunset.
Day Three: A Town of Silk and Truffles
The final day began with the usual hotel breakfast before exploring the town of Como.
At A. Picci, colorful silk scarves and ties sat in rows, appearing especially abundant against the wooden cabinetry. The unexpected color combinations were entrancing. This time, I chose brighter patterns in pink and purple to bring home.
Before departure, I had lunch at L’Antica, chosen for its tagliolini with fresh seasonal truffle. The accompanying sauce was light enough to provide contrast without overpowering the fragrance of the thinly sliced truffle.
The contrasts made the weekend memorable. Rain and saturated greenery, Como silk and Lebanese comfort food, a Michelin-starred tasting menu and lunch from the local grocery store.
Three days were not enough to fully explore Lake Como. Five would have felt more appropriate: one day for Como, one for Bellagio, and one at the hotel’s pool. I would add a day in Tremezzo and another spent on the water. On a longer visit, I would base myself closer to Tremezzo or Bellagio and make more room for meals along the water.
Explore Volume I: Tokyo | Kyoto | Osaka | Kobe | Nara & Uji | Sapporo | Chicago | Denver | Orange County